To Zee Top 2

Well, we were successful with goal 1 (returning home unscathed) and unsuccessful with goal 2 (summiting the mountain). 

Photos and videos: http://picasaweb.google.com/robcobb2/Denali2010?feat=directlink

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Videos only: http://www.youtube.com/user/billyurbanski#p/u

- Use this link to Bill's YouTube channel if the ones in Picasa are too grainy.

We arrived ahead of schedule (the final itinerary is below) at most every one of our camps. In eleven days we went from 7,200' base camp to 17,200' camp (the camp from which most teams make a summit bid). After spending two days at 17,200' we decided to abort the mission and leave the mountain. The weather forecast for the coming days was bleak. Temps were to top out at -5 F and get down to -15 F. Add to this winds in the 20-30 mph range and you have dangerous climbing conditions. The farther out the forecast the worse the weather was to get. Staying at 17,200 to wait out the weather was not an option. The body breaks down due to the altitude and the weather can make life extremely uncomfortable.

Instead of retreating off the mountain one option we considered (albeit briefly) was to return to 14,000' camp and wait for the weather to turn in our favor. This would involve breaking camp, descending the challenging ridge to the top of the fixed lines, descending the fixed lines on the Headwall and returning to 14,000' camp. After waiting out the weather for an unknown amount of time (turns out it would have been nearly 7 days) we would then be faced with ascending the Headwall, the fixed lines, and the challenging ridge back to 17,200' camp -- all the while carrying all our necessary food, fuel, clothing and gear (since we would not have cached any gear on the ridge). Mentally and (probably) physically we did not believe we were up to the task. Too daunting, too draining, too much.

We instead beat a path to base camp and hopped a plane to Talkeetna. Man oh man did the burger (with Fat Ass sauce) at the West Rib Pub taste awesome! :) 

Looking back on the journey I have no regrets or woulda, coulda, shoulda's. It was a great trip. The weather was better than we could have hoped...at least where we were (the weather above us was a different story). Physically I found the trip less demanding than in 2007. I credit this to the fact my training was better (more sled pulling and strength training) and I was mentally prepared for what laid ahead.

Thank you for the support extended to our team during the journey. Your interest is appreciated. 

As for the question of "when are you going back?" Not sure. I may never go back. Living on an ice cube for 2+ weeks may not be my cup of tea. There must be more enjoyable ways (like warmer and do not involve wearing crampons) to spend ones vacation days.

Of course, I did lose 13 pounds in 16 days (back to my high school weight) so maybe I will go back if I need to quickly shed poundage. :)

Take care,

Rob

Day 1 - afternoon - fly to Base Camp 7200'

Day 2 - Base Camp 7200' (6:00) to Camp 1 7800' (11:00)

Day 3 - Camp 1 to Cache 9,800' (Chris, Joe and Rob); Camp 1 to Camp 2 9,400'

Day 4 - Camp 2 (6:15) to Camp 3 11,200' (11:30)

Day 5 - Camp 3 to Cache 9,800' (Joe, Rob, Chris); Camp 3 to Cache 13,500' [Windy Corner] (Dave, Stony, Bill, Ken)

Day 6 - Camp 3 (10:30) to Camp 4 14,000' (17:00) [Stony stayed behind at Camp 3]

Day 7 - Rest day

Day 8 - Stony & Cache 13,500' retrieval; it was 90 degrees inside the tent in the afternoon!

Day 9 - Camp 4 (14:00) to Cache 16,000' (21:00)

Day 10 - Rest day - pancakes!

Day 11 - Camp 4 (12:00) to Cache 16,000' to Camp 5 17,200' (19:45) - Stony stayed at Camp 4

Day 12 - Rest day; 10 below zero in morning

Day 13 - Decision made to abort the mission - no summit attempt to be made; Camp 5 to Camp 4

Day 14 - Intended to move from Camp 4 to Camp 1; left in a whiteout and camped at 13,200' between Windy Corner and Squirrel Hill; dusted by an avalanche

Day 15 - Dave, Chris, Joe and Bill move to Base Camp; Ken, Stony and Rob move to Camp 1

Day 16 - Camp 1 (05:00) to Base Camp; many, many crevasses passed and crossed - no falls; return to Talkeetna; midnight flight to Denver